David Greggory: Each Course Better than the Last

I hesitate to review restaurants based on what I eat there during D.C. Restaurant Week because they usually do not offer their full menus, the RW items are often not part of the regular menu, etc. There was one restaurant I tried during RW, however, that I do not hesitate to recommend. David Greggory sits on the corner of M and 20th Streets, N.W. I knew I had to give it a try when I learned that it had received the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence for 2005. It is in a great location, and has large windows facing out on to M and 20th. The seating forms and L shape along these windows and inside the L is a beautifully lit bar — a really fun place to go and have a drink.

David Greggory View

According to publicist Karen Cathy, Chef Greggory Hill opened David Greggory in May 2003 after serving as chef at Gabriel for nine years and New Heights for five. It was promptly nominated for “New Restaurant of the Year” by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington. (Chef Hill had been named “Chef of the Year” in 2000.) Before opening David Greggory, Chef Hill studied under chefs in Mexico, Latin America, the American South and Southwest, Spain, France, India, and Thailand. These different styles are reflected in David Greggory’s wonderfully varied menu, which offers items ranging from “Three Little Pig Sandwiches on Black Pepper Biscuits” to “Truffle Scented Pizza.” The restaurant also features special events such as “Pork and Pinot Wednesdays” and “Aphrodisiac Bacon Dinners.”

With such a diverse menu, it was difficult to make a decision. Eventually I chose for my appetizer the American Artisanal Cheese Plate, which, that evening, had salty blue cheese, Spanish hard-rind, Camembert, and Vermont sharp cheddar. The cheeses were well-plated and matched with thin baguette toast, sweetened nuts, figs, grapes, plum jelly, and dried apricots. It was wonderful with the Burgundy that we selected.

We chose the Burgundy in anticipation of our entrees: my braised pork shank and my wife’s roasted rack of lamb. The pork shank was well-cooked with the combination of meat and fat creating a wonderful texture. As good as the pork was, the “garlicky” mashed potatoes were even better. There were no lumps, but they were not completely whipped either making for a very nice consistency. The garlic was more subtle than you will find in many restaurant dishes, but the subtlety worked well with the dish as a whole. A roasted tomato was a perfect addition to cut the saltiness of two beautiful chunks of bacon that accompanied the potatoes.

G. Hill Pork & Bacon
Stuffed Pork Tenderloin Wrapped in Applewood Bacon, with Fava Beans and Marionbeans

A quick taste of my wife’s rack of lamb told me one of two things — either the pork I was eating was no fluke or I just really like lamb (as per my review of The Clifton Inn). While the lamb was a bit closer to medium-well than the medium that my wife asked for, she loved the presentation and thought the crust of the lamb was “fantastic.” The smokey spinach worked well with her helping of those same garlic mashed potatoes.

While there wasn’t necessarily anything in the entrees that made me jump out of my chair, there was no part of the meal that I did not enjoy . . . and then came dessert. I ordered David Greggory’s version of a s’more, a chocolate brownie souffle between two layers of phyllo, homemade marshmallow, and creme angaise. Absolutely wonderful. I have never had anything quite like it. I was just starting to savor it when I looked up and saw my wife take her first bite of her dark chocolate pudding with marscapone cheese core. She closed her eyes, smiled, and said, “I could bathe in this.” I have a feeling I might be back at David Greggory before long.

4 Stars
Appx. $27 per entree


October 26, 2007 Update:

Hudson has replaced David Greggory in the same location.  New owner, new look, but same chef.  I will probably head over there to check in the next couple of weeks, but I bet it is the same good food too.

Published in: on August 25, 2006 at 11:14 pm  Leave a Comment  

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